Secrets of the City

I haved lived in Loring Park neighborhood just Southwest of Downtown. It is generally safe (athough like any city I wouldn’t walk around by myself at midnight). It is close to downtown and uptown restaurants and bars, the Walker Art Gallery and there are a bunch of nice coffee shops and restaurants surrounding Loring Park. Nice neighborhood where you don’t have to drive very often! Friendly people! Good luck!

Nah, not a dork. Real dorks would use the search feature.

It’s true that it’s a topic that’s come up before, but I don’t mind that it gets repeated every now and then because everyone is looking for something different. Besides, it makes me happy that someone moving here would care enough to choose the right neighborhood.

Loring Park is a very good suggestion. Or Elliot Park, which is a bit rougher around the edges but interesting. Both are just south of downtown, and they’re really the only two neighborhoods that are not separated from downtown by some major geographical feature (freeway or river). I also might suggestion the close-to-downtown section of Northeast. NE is huge and includes some of the farthest reaches of the city but the southernmost section is just across the river from downtown and has a lot of amenities. You can, of course, always live in downtown Minneapolis proper; there are condos – particularly the northwest edge of downtown along the river. North loop is also pretty close in to downtown.

I dunno what other people will say in terms of safety, but the only place I’ve ever felt unsafe in any part of the cities is some sections of North. And even then, the citizens of North along with some new people seem bent on improving the neighborhood, which is great. Parts of south near Lake street, Midway, and Frogtown have a bit of a reputation but I rather like them and have never had a problem.

Here’s a link to some useful crime maps and statistics if you are curious about safety. Tip: stay away from the fourth precinct.

Looks like I’ve got to represent St. Paul … again.

Nothing wrong with checking out Lowertown for downtown living. The population there is more densely concentrated than in the Minneapolis downtown-proper (i.e. forgetting about NE Mpls and Uptown, which really aren’t downtown at all).

The Midway-Hamline neighborhood of St. Paul has had a reputation in the past but it has really changed — for the better — in the past few years.

Both Lowertown and Midway offer easy (EASY!) freeway access. Midway also has an abundance and concentration of big box stores now (Target, Walmart, Herbergers, and, down the road a bit, Menards) with more coming. Lowertown offers a straight shot 10-minute drive east to Tamarack Village.

I think whatever choice you make will be made based on your after-work lifestyle. Yes, St. Paul is more sleepy than Minneapolis but that also means you won’t be mingling with as many poseurs (lol) when you do go out.

Midway is great – I think it has a unique, strange character – but it’s not urban at all and quite far from both downtowns.

I do second Lowertown, though, if St. Paul is peppy enough for you.

Bonus: both Midway and Lowertown will eventually have light rail, too, with connections to both downtowns, major arenas, and the airport.

But seriously, bmac81, the coolest neighborhood in the TC area is called Coon Rapids. I would recommend you buy a home there sight unseen, as they are snapped up quickly by local urban hipsters as soon as they become available. If can’t get into CR, try Blaine.

I do second Lowertown, though, if St. Paul is peppy enough for you.

hahahahahahahahahaha If St. Paul, where the Chipolte closes at 4:30, is peppy enough for you, then you probably belong on the farm down the road from my parents. Peppy St. Paul. hahahahahahahahaha

Seriously, only move to St. Paul if you have a thorough understanding of how to use GPS. And if you want to be LAME.

I say get an apt over on the 1800 or 1900 block of Fremont or Girard Ave South or thereabouts. Super close to downtown, uptown, bus lines, lakes, and just a few blocks away from the Wedge coop, Kowalski’s loads of restaurants. I used to live there as a young (28) single gal and it is tucked into a little nook of a safer neighborhood.

… but it’s not urban at all and quite far from both downtowns.

Midway not urban? Aside from the shopping centers on the south side of University between Snelling & Lexington, it’s all urban north of University Ave.; mostly owner-occupied homes, too.

And define “quite far,” because it’s only about 5-miles to either downtown Minneapolis or downtown St. Paul from Snelling & University. A person can easily bike that when the weather’s good, or take one of several bus routes that connect the two downtowns. (Plus, the Central Corridor LRT linking the two downtowns will provide another commuting option when that opens in a few years.)

If St. Paul, where the Chipolte closes at 4:30

Except for expensive dining (a la Murray’s, Manny’s, Oceanaire) or bars, I find very little that’s open, food-wise, in downtown Minneapolis after 5, too.

So, there.

Good gawd, nood, they’ve brainwashed you.

One the one hand, Midway is near that taco truck, right? On the other hand, Eli’s is on the western edge of DT Mpls and has this kick-ass mac n cheese I’m currently obsessed with and you should be too.

Good gawd, nood, they’ve brainwashed you.

Nah. I’ve been a happy St. Paul camper since 1993. Have lived in Lowertown, Dayton’s Bluff/Battle Creek and, now, Hillcrest.

I like it there.

Especially if I want to buy beer on a Sunday. lol

I am young (28), single and love the idea of being able to walk to interesting little cafes, or shops.

I am also all of these things and live in uptown and love it. Tons of cute cafes, boutiques, restaurants and bars. Also tons of people our age. It’s a ten minute bus ride from downtown, but honestly, you might not go downtown all that much unless you’re into clubbing or visiting expensive restaurants (or work there).

I hope you detected justpbob’s sarcasm. Moving to Coon Rapids or Blaine would destroy your social life.

I’ve lived here nearly six years and still been to downtown Minneapolis only two times that did not involve sporting events or making a transit connection.

So… is this the open thread? Or are we skipping that today?

Where am I going to gripe about things?

Consider the East Bank, just across the Hennepin Avenue bridge from downtown. You’re close but in a very nice urban neighborhood. Our weekend ritual is to walk the neighborhood and figure out which of the 5 coffee shops within walking distance we will enjoy.

Where am I going to gripe about things?

Twitter?

All right, fine. (stomps off)

“I hope you detected justpbob’s sarcasm. Moving to Coon Rapids or Blaine would destroy your social life.”

Moi? Sarcastic? Don’t listen to the others, bmac81, they hate people from Florida, and try to steer them into hellhole neighborhoods. Trust this native Floridian (Eau Gallie area, near Melbourne) to tell you the straight truth. (W)

East Bank. Shops / cafes / bars / butchers / yuppies / empty-nesters / bohemians / beauty school dropouts / gay bars / U-Otter-Stop-In / White Castle. All that and downtown proximate.

I lived in Uptown Minneapolis from 1999 to 2003 and quite liked it. I know it’s trendy to bash the neighborhood for becoming yuppified, but I now just venture over from my house in south Minneapolis long enough for occasional dinners and visits to stores like Penzey’s, so I don’t know if it’s that annoying. The thing I liked most about Uptown was the easy access to Lake of the Isles/Lake Calhoun, and to the bike trails. I also miss being able to walk to multiple grocery stores and drug stores in under 10 minutes, not to mention all the cafes and restaurants. And if you’re looking for public transportation, there are several bus lines through the neighborhood plus it’s easy to get downtown to change to other lines.

@bmac81: Do you intend to rent, or are you looking to buy?

nood, I just don’t see why you’d recommend a place 5 miles from each downtown to someone that wants to live in a “downtown type area”.

good god, noodleman, this person isn’t moving from florida to be close to a herbergers. listen, bmac…you’re young, single, like to walk…move to uptown or downtown mpls. coffee shops, bars, restaurants etc. once you get here and do some exploring, you’ll figure out if a mpls hood, st paul, gross midway, or the ‘burbs are right for you.

Don’t go to either downtown. Both a dreadful.

Don’t listen to kwatt, being a Republican makes you grumpy.

Well they are. With the possible – possible – exception of Lowertown or the Norht Loop, neither fits with what this young woman describes wanting.

kwatt, uptown fits this description to a T. it’s “downtown-type”, plenty of apartments for any budget, loads of cafes and shops, and is safe. there’s even a lake to walk/bike/rollerblade around. you may not like it, (i certainly grew tired of it after a few years), but it’s a great area for single residents under 30.

I was referring to just the downtown areas. I love Uptown and would like to live there again someday.

I’d recommend living in the northloop neighborhood or in St Anthony Main area (NE) directly across the river from downtown minneapolis near central and hennepin. Both require little use of a car have lots of people in the mid twenties to 30’s range with access to the missisippi, running trails and parks. The NE area has a lot of small boutique shops popping up and some excellent cafes. There are a few restaurants, but some of my favorites are in the north loop neighborhood (Bar La Grassa, Bewiched, Black Sheep Pizza, Cuzzy’s). I feel comfortable walking around downtown, north loop and st anthony main area at all hours alone and so does my small 25 year old girlfriend.

Uptown is nice, but it is not for everyone (lots of college kids go out here and its often louder and in my personal opinion more douchey than most of downtown with the exception of maybe 1st and 5th on most weekend nights…ie brother’s, drink, bootleggers). Uptown is generally safe since there are lots of people around, but in the past month I’ve seen multiple cars broken into and my friends bike was stolen.

As others have said don’t move to st paul unless you know what you’re getting yourself into.

Someone should tell her that it’s October 23 and snowing to beat hell outside.

Not what she’s looking for = dreadful?

Also, to clarify, roger and I are talking about the same place when he refers to “St. Anthony Main” area and me to the southern section of NE.

I wonder if there are any openings in wayno’s building, at University and Hennepin?

I don’t think there’s anything dreadful about what she’s looking for. I also don’t think you’ll find it in either of this area’s dreadful downtowns.

Should I mention that I live in St. Paul’s Midway area? Do I want to stir up a hornet’s nest? Forget I said anything…

@jeffk @cubbie: Neither of the downtowns bustle like Manhattan 24/7. So, my Midway suggestion was meant only to point out another viable option; one that easily allows one to enjoy EITHER downtown (because you’d be equidistant) but which doesn’t cost an arm and a leg for rent or a mortgage.

If walking to “interesting little cafes or shops” is a priority, neither DOWNTOWN area would entirely fit the bill (e.g. hardly anywhere to shop after 5 p.m. in either downtown). Nordeast, yes; St. Anthony Main, yes; Uptown, yes. But none of those are downtown.

I enjoy living in ‘near northeast’ (St. Anthony West neighborhood). Lived in the burbs (Richfield) for a few years after moving here from Tampa, FL back in ‘07. Did a ton of apartment hunting (looked at dozens of places) in Uptown, Midway, Loring Park, all over Northeast, and several parts of south Minneapolis. Even looked at a few in North (cheap but not my kind of vibe).

I’d recommend subletting or getting a shorter-term lease for a few months while you explore. The neighborhoods can differ a bit culturally and if you find a place that matches your tempo you’ll be enjoying it immensely. Likewise, some parts of town may not jive with ya.

I can’t recommend near-Northeast enough though – being able to walk or quickly bike to the 331 and 501, First Avenue, the Varsity and other places has its’ benefits for a music lover like me. Uptown has similar benefits but I found it to be a bit claustrophobic for me there – alot of people, parking’s difficult, liked NE’s attitude better.

If you want any advice from a Florida transplant drop me a line.

Another vote for NE. Moved here from New York over 10 years ago, lived in Dinkytown, SE, South, and now NE. Love it here in NE. Dinkytown/Eastbank was great when I was 18 but I’m not sure I’d want to live there now.

And I totally agree that Uptown has turned into a miserable mainstream douche-fest. There are still things to love about Uptown but the crowds of yuppie jerks, orange-skinned hausfraus, and frat types make much of Uptown unbearable.

Whereas NE is more mellow, very welcoming while still feeling active and vibrant, plus lots of diversity (socio-,ethno-, and economic).

Thank you all very much for your help. I really appreciate it.

Noodleman I am going to rent at least for awhile until I am more established.

@bmac81: Probably a wise choice to make.