Secrets of the City

I found the Copper Bleu to be decent overall when I went with Aaron soon after it opened in December.

What I was most surprised with was the response from their training manager over my concerns about their Guinness pours.

Looks like Andrew is questioning the star system more so than he is dissing Iggers. I do, however, think that Iggers has historically favored restaurants that have stuffed his belly and/or stroked his ego.

I must admit that Iggers’ review of Masa seems to hit the mark in several regards….
I was also diappointed by Masa…maybe I was misguided in hoping for straightforward & soulful regional Mexican cuisine (ala Chicago’s Topolabamba / Frontera or even Milwaukee’s Cempazuchi). What I got @ Masa seemed like nicely presented food with bland “Mexisotan” flavors. Still trying to find a nice local spot with a mezcal selection and mole made with love….

I’m going with my boy, Zim. Iggers constantly reps that populist Minnesota bullshit stance. Like when he reviewed La Belle Vie–he gave it a good review, but he had to throw in something about how he likes eating at the bar at the 112 way more. Commie.

Neither of them can stand in comparison to Dara or Rick Nelson. But there’s no question that, of the two, Iggers is the one most likely to be found singing the praises of Jack wings at Friday’s.

Dara is great, but she’s got a little bit of agit-foodie in her too. It’s not as glaring as with Iggers though–she knows fine dining when she eats it. But she totally commies-out on places like 20.21 or any D’Amico-owned spot.

Regarding the practice of grading restaurants on the star system, The New York Times’ Frank Bruni writes “But is the abandonment of stars a better option or just another of many imperfect approaches? Arent diners and restaurants often served best by the kind of concise, shorthand report card that a star rating  or a rating of any kind  represents? Im inclined to think so.”

Regarding the dynamic between himself and Steve Marsh, Andrew Zimmern writes, “Last year Miss Richfield hit on me, and this year it was our very own Steve Marsh who couldn’t keep from incessantly staring at me from across the crowded floor. Can you blame him? (Hey Marsh, I’m married!)”

Steve, how do you figure? I may not remember correctly, but her complaints about 20.21 were, for the most part, that she didn’t think it was good enough to justify the prices. I wouldn’t say that’s commieing out, I’d say that’s calling Wolfgang out. She’s always seemed pretty balanced on the haute-cuisine to cheaps eats ration, at least to me.

But I’ll be the first to admit, a big part of why I like Dara so much is because the woman can write. Iggers couldn’t write his way out of an Olive Garden doggie bag.

What would happen if some everyday schmo called in a reservation to a hotspot with a food critic’s name? Would we be treated like gould? Would they even know?

Look out Cosmos, Dara’s got big plans for tonight.

Once again, more proof that Sarah is among the best MNSpeak post-writers out there. And by best… I mean most likely to write something that makes me laugh out loud, snorting my Cherry-flavored Diet Pepsi deep into my nasal passages.

I’m pretty sure Cosmos would know that Dara’s not coming, as I’m quite sure that food critics dine incognito. Of course, if I’m wrong, I’m sure someone will straighten me out…

Otolaryngologists pay me to write this shit.

Dammit Sarah, now I need one of those Otolaryngologists. I seem to remember you did it to another commenter once, too. Is there a type of doctor for cracked ribs?

If you’re going to use big words, the least you can do is put in a link.

That DeRusha and his Cherry flavored Diet Pepsi.

You’re right DeRusha: Otolaryngologists pay me to write this shit. (You know I got the word from the same page you linked to!)

I think this town is too small for people not to know what Dara, Jeremy, Rick, et al look like. Restaurants know when they’re there. That whole incognito thing is overblown in the big cities too. I bet Blue Smoke knows when Adam Platt from New York Mag is in the house. Of course, Z is trying to be a better looking version of Emeril or something, so his face is plastered all over the city.

Anyway, a reminder: I’m going to be commie-ing out tonight at the Hexagon for my 30th birthday party. There’s this brother that sells ribs in the parking lot out of his car, so you foodies be sure to come on down.

Marsh: We’ll be there after the Stereolab thing. Thanks for sending the invite to my wife, and not me. No Twin Stadium for you! Three years!

I don’t have your email, deesh. Gimme it.

That ribs guy better show tonight, ’cause I’m gonna skip dinner and get me some of those.

The explanation is really very simple. Andrew Zimmern is right that you can’t compare dining experiences at these places, so I don’t try. The Star Tribune reviews award stars, not based on some absolute scale, but based on how strongly we can recommend the restaurant. That means, for example, that a great hot dog stand could, theoretically, get more stars than an over-priced, pretentious haute cuisine restaurant.

As for the restaurants that Andrew mentioned, Copper Bleu really is about as good as it gets in the south Metro, and Trocaderos got its high mark because it offers a good combination of quality, value, and (when the nightclub is in operation) a unique dining/entertainment experience. (But I have since gotten reports that the quality isn’t consistent.)
As for Masa, it definitely has a lot of style, but I have yet to hear anybody who knows and loves real Mexican food come to its defense.
Bon Appetit,
Jeremy Iggers

Why do so many people on this site snort soda or wine or whatnot out their noses or mouths and need to mention it in their posts? How gauche!

In case you are wondering, I don’t think Jeremy Iggers was responding to the coke out the nose thing, but to the original post.

I’m with Iggers on this one. Ebert makes the same case for a contextual form of rating, not an absolute set of criteria.

And Masa is boring. Absolutely and contextually.

Hi Rex.

Rake Raters have also given Masa a collective “ok, but not great.” Stephanie March seemed to like it, though.

Yes, but what does Stephanie March look like?

I give Jeremy’s comment 2 1/2 stars.

A splendid MNspeak post would be to gather photos of all the local restaurant critics.

Stephanie March…how gauche!

You ask, you shall receive.

I give it two stars. That relativity argument appeals to the lowest common denominator. I just think that J.I. thinks, not all that deep down, that most haute cuisine is pretentious and over-priced. And his attitude is exacerbated by the Strib’s audience, or at least J.I.’s concept of the Strib’s audience, which is so broad and so Minnesotan that it’s going to root for the hot dog stand and against the fancy restaurant, generally.

Once you’ve ssen Dara, you remember what she looks like. She’s rather striking. Perhaps food critics should do what that fellow on television did a few decades ago and wear a mask. Anyone remember that guy?

When I was a theater critic, once in a while I wished I could go incognito. I’d be enjoying a show, and suddenly I would catch an actor onstage looking out at the audience at me. It was always discomfiting.

Stephanie’s a hell of a lot prettier than Zimmern, I can tell you that. She is, though, keeping her looks to herself, for the exact reason that Max just gave.

Whatever, Zimmern can hold his own with anybody.

And I’m still pissed about the whole “Stephanie March” thing, Tommy. If you can’t afford the real deal Holyfield, it’s still not cool to invent some improbably named shadow figure that has to “maintain her anonymity for ethical reasons.” Likely story, dude.

Cool of Iggers to respond. I actually had lunch at Masa this afternoon, and twice I saw people get up and walk out in exasperation with the chaotic service. But, uh, me gusta the tres leches cake.

i went to masa on a sunday night. the service was great. i’m not an expert on mexican cuisine, but i found the food to be quite good. and the flan is out of this world.

and i love dara.

Just so I have this straight, Marsh: Iggers’ audience is regular people and MSP’s audience are people who don’t mind paying $15 for an enchilada they could get south of the river in St. Paul for 4 bucks? A mi me gusta la cocina autentica Mexicana.

Sarah, the Tres Leches de Mencha at Babalu–amazing.

When Zimmern goes out to eat, not only does he get special treatment, but he also gets special menus.

I get so tired of reading the snarky assumptions regarding who the average MSP Magazine reader is, so I went to the website looking for accurate demographic information, so I could come back here and post it and say “nyah” once and for all. Turns out, you’re right and I’m wrong.

No wonder my ads never worked.

Oh my God. It’s a chick magazine.

I resent being called “hyperconsumptive.”

Zimmern not only gets special treatment & menus (at rock bottom prices, no less) when he dines out, his arrival is marked by blaring trumpets and he is carried in by man servants.

Dara, on the other hand, reputedly does everything she can to maintain her anonymity in the name of conducting an impartial review. I heard that Dara is having / has had a child and that’s why her writing has been infrequent…anyone know about this?

Not sure how Iggers treats his visits.

Speaking of Zimmern, has anyone else noticed his cameo in the local tv commercial (I believe it’s for Xcel Energy)…hard to notice him @ first, but the crazy tower of aspargus he serves just gives him away.

Especially when “Hyperconsumptive” means you have a wracking case of tuberculosis.

Clearly, MSP Magazine did a disservice to its readers by not selecting enough married 60+ year-old women with $350,000 homes and $140,000 salaries for its “Hipster” issue. But maybe writing about their “hip” kids and grandkids is the next best thing, yo?

We had a couple in there.

The average MSP Magazine subscriber prefers looking @ photos & ads over reading content, at somthing like a 3-to-1 ratio.

As opposed to readers of other, hyperliterary local publications, who just love content. Pure content. Like you beautiful MNSpeak readers. Who feels like spraypainting some billboards? Let’s go! Screw Sunday brunch, let’s support the working man.

I suppose Marsh has a point…if MSP Mag is fluff, Minnesota Monthly is merely lint in comparison.

If Bartel did this sort of comparison, The Rake’s motto could be “half the size, twice the content”…of course it still wouldn’t draw in many wealthy post-menopausal devotees.

You gotta be kidding. Twice the content? Uh…no. Maybe a tenth of the ad revenue, but that’s not by choice. Or is it? Maybe it’s genius. Either way, you, Grote, definitely have four times the amount of Bartel in your mouth.

stephmarch/stevemarsh? A figment of whose imagination? You’re so pretty.

Steve Marsh is real. I rubbed up against him at the Hex.

“Real” in what sense, Mr. Day?

Is it a stretch to say that MSP and City Pages have much narrower demographics than the Strib?

If we can agree on that, is it a mystery why MSP can celebrate what they perceive as the finest food in town, and why Dara can spin eclectic prose about whatever strikes her fancy?

Iggers has to write for the little old ladies from SLP who go out to lunch every week, the suburban families(or mom & dad looking for a special occasion restaurant), plus all the same people who read MSP & CP.

Cut Iggers some slack, fer chrissakes. The Strib isn’t the Times. If it was, this would be NYC, and most of you would be in Omaha bitching about how provincial it is.

Uh, russ, made that point like a week ago.

Which point:

Demographics dictate different perspectives

-or-

Whiny minnepoletans can’t make it in the Apple.

P.S. Why do you have to hate on the Rake? The writing as good as MSP, and I don’t have to look at all those ads for vein removal.

The former.

I don’t hate on the Rake. I’m a fan of some writers at the Rake. Vogel, DeSmith. Big up. It’s just that some of you hippies hate on my magazine on here, and Bartel forces his writers to make lame jokes at our expense in the Rake’s margins, and well, I was raised gangsta. Hit ‘em up, you know? Can’t help it.

Aiight? I’m off to my 2:30 chemical peel.

Hippies? I thought we were scenesters.

God, I can’t keep all this terminology straight.

Hippies/scenesters/douchebags. Interchangeable. Got it?

Can we conflate them into the word douchescenies?

Yes.

Next month in Mpls St. Paul: Critics pick the Twin Cities’ 50 Top Douchebags.

And Marsh gets top billing.

It’s like the Jets versus Sharks! The Rake versus MSP Mag!

I’m trying to decide who I should be taking cheap shots against? Channel 5? Too easy. Fox 9? I’m afraid of blimp attacks. KARE 11? Worried about being blinded by the new anchor’s teeth.

Of course. Massive playboy-length QA with myself. It would BLOW YOUR MIND.

No, just yours. And we’re clearly too late.

Oh, come now. Is there really any reason to pit the Rake against MSP Mag? I mean, how fair is that? The Rake is clearly a superior publication. It actually has copy! Don’t get me wrong — I think MSP Mag is a great publication for the suburban housewives and tourists.

But like instead of Puerto Rican ballerinas, the Sharks were a bunch of windy City Pages second-stringers? Awesome!

And menk, your jokes are way older than our demo. But that’s cool. They’re free. Just like the Rake.

Funny, Jason.

All good things are free , Marsh… sex, sunshine, and The Rake. (or do you pay for it?)

Sex, sunshine, and the rake? Are you on acid?

Hippy.

I’m dropping the mic.

marsh would obvoiously make a much better fit for the rake than that bluehair ladies mag., but he seems to have pretty much burned that bridge down to the permafrost, for no apparent reason. and i hafta say that if you subtract the “advertorial” or sponsored content or whatever, and the ads, thereproabably is less than half the reading in MSP. just sayin.

My point exactly.

Oh my God, I’m so IMMATURE. I should be thinking about my CAREER each time I post on MNspeak. You guys are such amateurs. Do you really think that anybody that matters reads this shit? And if they do, do you think they would hold a grudge against me for crushing a couple of out-of-work tomato cans? This is just like when Spider Man enters that wrestling tournament for a couple hundred bucks.

And yes, I do remember netradio. Go check out my Toby Keith interview if you can find it. Genius.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, the Pulitizer calls.

Wow. stevemarsh is in rare form today.

Ohhhhhh YEAAAAAGHHHH! Elizabeth…DOWN THAT AISLE!!

It starts getting tempting to prod him on just to see how far he’ll go. Mus maintains self-control.

Who’s Mus?

Has anyone ever seen Marsh and Har Mar Superstar in the same room???

Only about a trillion models, dude.

Obviously, stevemarsh needs to get laid.

Mus.

Perhaps food critics should do what that fellow on television did a few decades ago and wear a mask. Anyone remember that guy?

hipmn, was that the phantom diner from PM magazine?

That’s the one!

So almost all those 60 yr old rich scuba-diving decorating dinner party ladies all hang at Mall-O-America?

West concourse here I come!

If this is blog about Copper Blue, I love it.
I’ve been there 4 times already. It’s currently one of my favorite restaurants!

Copper Bleu, which is how they spell colours in Lakeville, evidently.

I find Masa to be quite average.

To clarify, coke goes up the nose, Cherry Coke goes out the nose, and Alexis’ navel makes a lovely snifter.

Rick Bayless is here. We have arrived, MNSpeak.

No way, that can’t really be Bayless.

I’ll be bringing a little Mexico to Stasiu’s tonight, yo!

Alright, now Taylor is fakin it.

Dara gets out of the house. And goes to MASA.

Boo! Thumbs down on those crappy Masa churros. Get the real deal over at Solera.

For the record (and I’ll just pretend that people really care about food and not all the snarky half informed crap they post) the review RACKET in Minneapolis is a worthless when it comes to invoking the pubic to try great restaurants.
Let’s do a little fun exercise like review the reviewer! I’ve had the pleasure and displeasure to have meet, spoken, read, writen to and about the following critics.
Jeremy Iggers:
Persona: Kinda like your scholastic yet geractric uncle.
Method of Review: He calls his crusty cronies with ties in the restaurant business and asks their opinon. He tips offs the partner of the restaurant that he’s comming to review. If you decide to open a restaurant in the twin cities it a good idea if you have someone in the company that knows Iggers.
Reliability of the Review: Not worth the effort however well written. His reviews are like a Crysler New Yorker Town Car with Ricardo Montabon in a Bounty 500 suit reading a telephone book while drinking a Brandy Alexander.
To Note: Ever notice that any review that is somewhat non-narcodic is given to the ever chipper patsy Rick Nelson?

The Minnesota restaurant scene do not not need another puppet critic with a hidden agenda. What the public should be focusing on is:
The Dirtest Kitchens, The Worst Restaurant To Work At, The Biggest Price Gouge Wine List.

Andrew zimmern, the fat, bald, worthless prick slated my restaurant on his crappy talk show that nobody listens to anyway. He spent 10 minutes ripping it to pieces and HE HADN’T EVEN BEEN THERE. Here is a response i wrote to him.

Dear Chef Andrew,

i want to thank you for the free publicity you gave me on your chow hounds radio talk show last week. I find it amazing how such an “internationally acclaimed” food critic such as yourself can sit and slate a restaurant for 10 minutes that you havent even been to. Obviously your professionalism really shone through on that show. Just so you know, my restaurant is doing very well, and the public all like the food, but then again, they have eaten there and have a basis to judge, unlike you. The reason why we close at midnight, for your information, is due to a licencing restriction placed on us by the city council, not because of a poor business decision by me as you so quickly concluded to on your talk show, but then again, had you bothered to do any research, you would have known this. As ridiculous a concept that you think my restaurant is, the concept of a food critic putting down the decor, food and ambiance of a place you have never been to, nor will you ever by the way as you will not be allowed in, is far more ridiculous, but then again, what do i know? I’m only another restaurant owner who has actually taken a chance, and risked it all to build a place, not like you who lives off the backs of people like me. Feel free to read my email to your listeners, the extra publicity can only make the place more successful than it already is.

Good luck in your future ventures, hopefully you will be moving on to a different city, as based on what i have heard about you, i don’t think your popularity level could get any lower in this town.

Robert Serr

Restaurant Miami

Robert, you really come across as a huge asshole. You must not be very smart.

Attacking the critics is the fastest way I know to make yourself seem thin-skinned and unprofessional. The wiser thing to do would have been to send him a letter thanking him for his opinion, gently correcting any mistakes in reporting, and inviting him back at any time he chooses, as he must have simply been there on a bad night.

Max…agreed.

Additionally, this Robert Serr fella sounds like the type of guy who ought to seek a vocation not in the hospitality business.

And as for alastor, he/she should focus less on critiquing the local critics and more on spellchecking & grammar.

Andrew Z is an ex-junkie parasite, looking to make money of of others while taking as few chances as possible. Some things never change, they just get a bit cleaner.

Oy veh.

Andrew zimmern, the fat, bald, worthless prick slated my restaurant on his crappy talk show that nobody listens to anyway. He spent 10 minutes ripping it to pieces and HE HADN’T EVEN BEEN THERE.

And you chose a year-old MNSpeak thread to respond?

There’s so much wrong with this:

1) I didn’t hear the talk show, and don’t know anyone who listens to it, so I would have never heard what you are saying he said if it wasn’t for you.

2) I’m far more aware of Andrew’s work than I am of you. And while I don’t always agree with Andrew, I’ve read him enough to know if and when my tastes line up with his.

3) I’ve only heard seriously mixed reviews about your restaurant, mostly from personal friends whose opinion I trust. And after reading your hot headed and idiotically placed response, it makes me think less of you as a business owner, and as it follows, your restaurant.

4) Did I mention how stupid it was to post this on a year-old MNSpeak thread?

In conclusion, dude, you’re an idiot.