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Beyond the Cask

Spill the Wine...She's Baaaaacckkk

People say I can be a bit harsh. Like, say, Stalin. (See my husband for details.) I’m working on this.

Shortly after it opened, in June 2007, I wrote a screed about a Washington Avenue bistro called Spill the Wine because I went there one night and they served me glass after glass of lukewarm swill. It is true; this happened. Here are the mitigating factors: It was a 90-degree evening, their air conditioner (I later found out) had broken earlier that day, the staff was new and barely trained, and I was on a rampage largely because I'd been hearing from other dedicated wine drinkers that this is the one egregious mistake Midwestern retailers make again and again.

"Why can't they get it through their heads?" one reader had written to me earlier that week. "Room temperature means the interior of a drawing room in Alsace, not the temperature in your kitchen at the height of summer?"

So I did what you're warned never to do with children or sensitive brand-new restaurateurs. I made an example of Spill the Wine. Only to find last night, they've gone me one better. They've made an example, too: becoming in the year-plus since I first visited them perhaps the classiest, least expensive, most pleasant wine bar in town.

A friend and I snuck in around 5:30. (I was worried, of course, that someone might be waiting with a pack of pit bulls to sic on me.) We sat at a table for two under the cream-and-russet scarves and dangling vines of light that make this place as lovely and simple as a stage set. Within moments, a darling and attentive boy named Ben was at our tableside, encouraging us (!) to take advantage of the daily Happy Hour special which provides eight wines (four red, four white) for $15. There was also a menu of snacks, each for five.


We ordered the Manyana Tempranillo 2006, which retails for about $10, making the mark-up incredibly low by wine bar standards (it's usually 100-200%). This was served at an IDEAL temperature, the bottle ever so slightly cool in the hand. It's a lively yet smooth and simple Tempranillo that's full of cherry and plum and has that wonderful quintessentially Spanish note of whiskey in the bouquet.

After a long stretch - during which Ben returned to fill our glasses, get me change for the meter, and check on us at exactly the right intervals - we had a salad and some crusty bread. The bill for our two-hour wine date: $29 and change.

Now I suppose the possibility exists that I actually helped Spill the Wine achieve such greatness: by lambasting them for poor service on my first visit I set the bar high. I'd like to believe that, I really would.

But no matter what or how or why, the fact is that today, this is one of the best deals in town. It's cheerful and twinkling, humming but intimate. Service is impeccable. Prices are exceedingly reasonable. Even the soap in the ladies room was a delightful surprise with its subtle natural almond smell.

Just as Stalin's statue has tumbled, I have come back a kinder and gentler reviewer. Lucky for me, my first assignment turned out to be such a treat.

Starting Out in the Evening

Remember those days when you would wait for your parents to leave the house so you could invite your girl- or boyfriend over for an evening of videos and cheap wine and illicit sex?

Well, here's a funny thing. Those days return, when you're 42 or so. . . .You discover there's a Friday evening coming up. The kids are going to be out -- one at a sleepover, the other doing whatever high school seniors do -- and you plot. You get a DVD from Hollywood and a cheap bottle of wine and think about how you're going to have the house all to yourself.

Ah. . . .the romance of middle age.

My husband and I recently ran into just such a Friday night. Teenage daughter at a friend's house; adult son out for most of the night. We ran out to rent a film we'd been wanting to see ever since it hit Uptown for about ten minutes last winter then disappeared and opened a bottle of Tiziano Chianti 2005.

The film was called Starting Out in the Evening, a sleeper from 2007 that sprang from a book by Brian Morton, whose entire canon I happen to have read.

Morton is a fascinating writer. Around 50, Jewish, a New Yorker. He clearly has some personal demons to excise. Each of his books covers much the same ground: There is some combination of an older, Jewish, intellectual writer -- a contemporary of Bellow's and Roth's -- a 40-ish woman who is grappling with her desire to have children, a leftist, and an aged but understanding therapist. Morton is, in my experience, the most formulaic writer on the planet today. Yet what he produces is at once readable and fresh. Each time he enters the same territory he has something strangely new to say. He comes at it from a different facet. He makes this single story work, over and over again.

So it is with this film. It's the story of a 70-year-old novelist (Frank Langella) whose books have all fallen out of print. He is trying to finish that one last novel that will become his legacy when a graduate student (Lauren Ambrose of Six Feet Under fame) appears at his door to tell him she is writing her thesis about his body of work. Meanwhile, his daughter and -- for all intents and purposes -- best friend, played by Lily Taylor, is turning 40 and debating whether or not to trick her childless-by-choice boyfriend into an "accidental" baby.

There were rumors Langella would be nominated for an Academy Award for Starting Out, and I think it's a shame he was not. He is a burly, bullet-shaped elderly man, yet he managed to turn from obdurate to frail after his character suffered a stroke. The scene in which his daughter's boyfriend must haul the old man out of the bathtub -- chest to chest, dripping wet; in some way getting the "child" he was so determined never to have -- was worth an Oscar nomination alone.

But back to the evening, OUR evening and the wine. Chianti generally is made out of Sangiovese grapes. It is the cousin of other richer Tuscan reds, such as Montepulciano and Carmignano. But Chianti tends to be smooth and forgettable -- a thin table wine with no real character.

This one, however, blew me away -- especially for the price, which is around $9 a bottle. Sweet strawberry and honey married with a sturdy, dry, deep forest oak, it's a light but sophisticated wine. A perfect match for the quiet, poignant film. Exactly right for two exhausted parents grateful simply to be sprawled across each other like puppies in a large chair, drinking in the quiet on a Friday night.

Fill Your Tank With Pinot Gris

Back in late 2007, I wrote a blog post called The Seventh Sign: $30 Chianti about a predicted rise in the price of European wines. According to the New York Times, the hike was supposed to hit in three to five months. Right about. . . .now.

The exchange rate, oil prices, global economic turmoil: all the factors are there. But so far as I can see, wine inflation just isn't happening. At least not yet.

As of April 2008, I'm buying the same French, Spanish, and Italian wines I was buying a year ago, for roughly the same amount of money. Low end to high end, everything wine-wise seems stable. Which is, frankly, puzzling to me. . . .because everything else is going up. Gasoline is averaging $3.60 per gallon nationwide. And food prices are going up in a corresponding fashion: milk is up to $4 a gallon and the cost of eggs has risen a staggering 40 percent.

Perhaps it's time to stop buying such frippery. Omelets! Who needs 'em? Especially when you can get a decent bottle of Borja Borsao shipped to you all the way from the sun-kissed Spain for $5.95.

You see, in addition to the weird and inexplicable stability of the imported wine market, Haskell's is running its legendary nickel sale until Saturday, May 3. This used to mean that they offered customers one bottle at full price and the second for a nickel. Today, it's more complicated. But basically, it boils down to this: Everything in their 10 Twin Cities stores that has a yellow sign is 30 to 50 percent off. And I spent enough time in the Minnetonka location today to attest, these deals run both long and deep.

I picked up four bottles for under $7 apiece (including, by the way, a very nice chianti). But there were deals on the higher-priced items as well: Really nice 2005 Bordeaux in the $40 range, a Pouilly-Fuisse for $25. And the really quality wines, those typically in the $250 bracket, are going for about $175.

It's a strange world we live in, where it's cheaper to drink fine French wine than to take a Sunday evening drive or heat the water for a long shower or feed an infant. But this is the reality, folks. So we might as well make the best of it. If wine is the only inexpensive luxury that remains — and the only thing merchants are willing to sell at a fair market price — I say go for it. Buy the really good stuff and enjoy.

In fact, if you stop by Haskell's before this weekend, you may pay less per ounce for your wine than you do for the fuel you use to get there. Ironic, isn't it?

A Midsummer Night's Wine

So it seems the kids from Fame (who, by the way, are now eligible for AARP) have gotten together with Cyndi Lauper and a couple writers from the early days of Saturday Night Live to adapt Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream for the Guthrie.

That, and I suppose Joe Dowling had a hand in it, too.

This is a wild, colorful, aggressively sexual production. And by that, I don't mean sexy. "Sexy," to me, is nuanced and flirtatious, suggestive, tempting, a little bit hidden. Sexual is in your face. It's full frontal, bumping and grinding. It's Ground Zero. It's Rich Goldsmith's headlines. It's Namir Smallwood's Puck in a glittering coral codpiece.

This is not to say I didn't like the play. There were wonderful dance numbers, great (skimpy) costumes, and a fabulous sparkly egg in which Titania and Bottom the ass get it on. I enjoyed the Guthrie's production for what it was: grand spectacle.

But I did miss the air of sweetness and optimism that typically wafts through Midsummer Night's Dream. This is a play I associate with whimsy and tentative romance and the suspension of disbelief. It is, in my experience (which involves seeing it perhaps five other times on stages including the former Guthrie's and studying it in Stratford-upon-Avon) a story about the mischievous yet goodnatured spirit world that helps guide the loves and lives of mortals. It contains a play within a play — which was executed beautifully in the Guthrie's current production as wry slapstick — and a layering of comical missed chances, magic, and a sense that everyone will be rightfully paired in the end.

Contrast that with Dowling's modern vision: An alien landscape in which sci-fi fairies drop from the sky and prod underwear-clad couples to lurch from love to lust and back to love again.

If you go for this sort of thing, I urge you to see it and stop by Cue on your way up for a glass of Flor de Pingus 2005. This Spanish red from the Ribera del Duero region is fruity and floral on the nose. But it tastes completely different than it smells: earthy, plummy, and HOT. I mean, this wine scorches on the way down your throat; it's dry on the tongue, and the finish is pure whisky.

Flor de Pingus is like a well-built Spanish guy in tight leather. . . .You know, someone old enough to know what he's doing but young enough to do it well. At 14.8% alcohol and a little more than $100 a bottle, it costs about the same as two tickets to the show.

But this wine is really sexy, not just sexual. It has shades and nuances, and an impish, spiritual gleam. Which is, if you ask me, well worth the price of admission.

A Dry Spell and Then a Premier Cru

It is true that I drink wine nearly every day. But recently, I went three days without. . . .very purposefully. It was less a personal decision than a public parenting demonstration. Alcohol is not a necessity. I only hope it worked.

I was in Madison, Wisconsin, with my middle child, Max — 18 years old this week — who has been accepted to the university for fall. This was my birthday gift to him: a weekend in a hotel in the town where he will soon be living, a tour of the local restaurants, a shopping spree for Badger gear.

We shared a hotel room to minimize costs. And he was courtly and careful, changing in the bathroom and muting the volume on the televised basketball game he was watching when I wanted to go to sleep. I, in turn, tried to tone down my female-isms and Mom impulses. I dealt with being sweaty after the two-hour campus tour and wore no makeup and ate tabbouleh for breakfast when that's what he craved.

And I decided not to buy wine at night.

When I travel with my husband, it's a sacred ritual: that bottle from a local wine shop that we open with our travel corkscrew and drink out of Lucite "glasses" in our room. But traveling alone with my underage son — in a town that I'm growing to love, but where I saw people drinking beer, A LOT OF PEOPLE DRINKING BEER, for breakfast — it just didn't seem right.

One of my greatest concerns about Max's leaving for a Big 10 school is the alcohol element. I know, as a college professor, that drinking begins on Thursday night and continues, pretty much unabated, through every weekend. Home games are an excuse for alumni to come into town and "tailgate," which means sitting in a parking lot and cracking open a Budweiser at 8 a.m.

So it just didn't feel right to me to comb the streets of Madison for a liquor store and buy cheap wine and schlep it back to the hotel room. Mom with the monkey on her back. Instead, I got us a six-pack of mineral water to keep in our mini-fridge and share.

It was a wonderful weekend. Max got comfortable in the place that will be his home for the next four years. He caught a wave of school spirit (the Badger scrubs clinched the deal, I think). And he seemed even to be excited about school itself: the massive biology building, the lakeside Union, the main library where he logged in with his student ID and discovered he already has an account.

It was only after we arrived home that the reality hit me. This kid is leaving.

Technically, Max is my younger son. But because his older brother has autism and his father left when he was nine, Max has aways straddled a strange role. He's been protector and consultant and cook. At 10, he made a Thanksgiving turkey. At 17, he stood by his catatonic brother's hospital bed at Mayo and debated the risks and benefits of electroshock. He has been my mainstay, my rock, my comic relief. And now, I have to let him leave.

It's a little like tearing off a foot-long strip of my own skin. Which is why I insisted he go to an out-of-state school-- because I wanted too badly for him to stay close to home.

Sunday night, around the time I was realizing all this, my husband opened a bottle of Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune de Chateau Premier Cru 2005 that we'd been saving for a time of need. Pure pinot noir from Burgundy, this wine is silky and deceptive. It feels light in the mouth, nearly sweet and purely fruity at first. But then there is a streak of oaky dryness that runs straight down the tongue and lasts for a long, long time. This makes it incredibly easy to drink but satisfying. Perfect alone. Even better with food.

Me? I wasn't in the mood to eat. Only to drink my wine and mull the four months I have left with this large, serious, clever boy. The dry spell was over. But it was worth every abstinent minute. And more.

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